One of the most common questions homeowners ask before starting a bathroom renovation is "how long will it take?" The short answer: a straightforward bathroom installation takes 3-7 working days, while a complex renovation can take 10-14 days or more. But the real answer depends entirely on the scope of your project, the condition of the existing bathroom, and how well-prepared you are before work starts.
This guide gives you realistic timelines for every type of bathroom project, a day-by-day breakdown of what happens during a typical renovation, and — perhaps most usefully — an honest look at what causes overruns and how to avoid them.
Timeline by Project Type
| Project Type | Typical Duration | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Like-for-like suite replacement | 2-3 days | Same layout, just new toilet, basin, and bath/shower. Minimal tiling. |
| Full renovation, same layout | 5-7 days | Strip out, re-tile walls and floor, new suite, new shower. No plumbing repositioning. |
| Full renovation with layout change | 7-10 days | Moving toilet, basin, or shower positions. New drainage runs, possible joist work. |
| Wet room installation | 7-10 days | Floor grading, full tanking, and curing time add 2-3 days over a standard renovation. |
| En-suite from scratch | 10-14 days | Building the room (stud walls, door), running plumbing and electrics from scratch, full fit-out. |
Important: These timelines assume one fitter (or a fitter plus one subcontractor) working full days. If your fitter is juggling other jobs and only coming 3-4 days a week, a 7-day job can stretch to 2-3 weeks. Confirm their availability upfront.
Day-by-Day: What Happens During a Full Bathroom Renovation
Here is a typical schedule for a standard full bathroom renovation (same layout, new everything), which usually takes 5-7 working days:
Day 1: Strip Out
The old bathroom comes out. The fitter removes the existing suite (toilet, basin, bath or shower), strips tiles from walls and floor, and removes any rotten or damaged plasterboard. The room is taken back to bare walls and floor, and the existing pipework is exposed. Waste is removed or bagged for skip collection. By the end of day one, you are looking at an empty shell.
Day 2: First Fix Plumbing and Electrical
The plumber routes new hot and cold water pipes to the correct positions for the new suite layout. If there is a concealed shower valve, the pipework for that is installed behind the wall. The electrician (if needed) runs cables for the extractor fan, any new lighting, and the shower isolator switch. If the walls need re-boarding (new plasterboard or cement board for wet areas), that happens today too.
Day 3: Plastering and Preparation
If the walls need skimming, the plasterer comes in. Fresh plaster needs time to dry before tiling — typically 24-48 hours depending on ventilation, temperature, and the thickness of the skim coat. In some cases, the fitter will use tile backer boards instead of plaster, which can be tiled immediately and eliminates this waiting period. Floor preparation (levelling compound, plywood overlay) also happens today.
Days 4-5: Tiling
This is usually the longest phase. The tiler works through the walls first (starting from the bath or shower area), then the floor. Tiling cannot be rushed — each row needs to be level and set before the next one goes on, and complex cuts around pipes, windows, and fixtures take time. Large-format tiles look stunning but require more precision and slower work than smaller tiles.
Day 6: Second Fix Plumbing
With the tiling complete, the plumber returns to connect the suite. The toilet, basin, taps, and shower are all fitted and connected. The bath (if applicable) is positioned and plumbed. The heated towel rail is connected (either to the central heating or wired in as electric). Everything is tested for leaks, flow, and drainage.
Day 7: Finishing and Snagging
Grouting is completed (some tilers grout as they go, others do it as a final step). All silicone sealing is applied — around the bath, shower tray, basin, and wall-to-floor junctions. Accessories are fitted: mirror, toilet roll holder, towel hooks, shower screen. A thorough clean-up, and then a walkthrough with you to identify any snagging items.
What Causes Overruns (And How to Minimise Them)
Most bathroom renovations that overrun do so because of foreseeable issues that could have been prevented with better planning. Here are the main culprits:
1. Materials Arriving Late
This is the single most preventable cause of delays. If tiles arrive halfway through the tiling phase, or the shower valve is back-ordered, work stops — but your fitter's daily rate does not.
Solution: Order everything before work starts. Every tile, every fixture, every accessory. Have it all on site (or confirmed for same-day delivery) before the strip-out begins. Allow extra tiles (10-15% overage for cuts and breakages).
2. Hidden Problems
Once you strip back an old bathroom, you sometimes discover problems that were invisible before:
- Rotten floor: Water damage from a slow leak (often around the toilet base or shower tray) can rot the chipboard or plywood subfloor, and sometimes the joists beneath. Replacing rotten floor sections adds half a day to a full day.
- Damp behind tiles: Old bathrooms with poor ventilation and failed silicone seals often have damp patches behind the tiles. The plasterboard may be sodden and crumbling. Re-boarding the walls adds a day.
- Out-of-square walls: Older UK homes rarely have perfectly square or plumb walls. The tiler needs to compensate for this, which slows the process and may require additional packing or levelling.
- Old lead pipe: If your property still has lead water supply pipes (common in pre-1970s houses), your fitter may advise replacing them while the bathroom is stripped back. This is additional work but worth doing for health and compliance reasons.
- Asbestos: Old floor tiles, ceiling tiles, and pipe insulation may contain asbestos. If discovered, work must stop until it is assessed and (if necessary) removed by a licensed contractor. This can add days or weeks to a project.
How to prepare: Build a contingency of 10-20% into both your budget and your expected timeline. Discuss with your fitter upfront how they handle unexpected problems — specifically, how they communicate the issue, agree extra costs, and adjust the schedule.
3. Tiling Taking Longer Than Expected
Tiling is consistently the phase that overruns. It is physical, precision work that cannot be rushed without compromising quality. Factors that slow tiling down:
- Large-format tiles (600x600mm or bigger) need more careful handling and precise cuts
- Complex patterns or layouts require more planning and measuring
- Multiple cuts around pipes, windows, and niches take time
- Natural stone tiles (marble, travertine) need different adhesive and more careful handling than porcelain
- Uneven walls mean constant checking and adjusting
4. Waiting for Plaster to Dry
If walls need replastering (which is common after stripping old tiles), the new plaster must dry to the correct moisture content before tiles can be applied. Tiling onto wet plaster causes adhesive failure — the tiles will eventually come loose.
Drying time depends on: Room temperature, ventilation, time of year (winter takes longer), and plaster thickness. A typical bathroom skim coat needs 24-48 hours minimum, but can take longer in cold or humid conditions.
The workaround: Tile backer boards (cement board or foam board) can be fixed to the walls instead of plastering. These are waterproof, perfectly flat, and can be tiled immediately. They cost slightly more in materials (£5-£8/m2 for the boards plus fixings) but save a day or more of waiting. Many modern bathroom fitters use them as standard.
5. Subcontractor Scheduling
If your fitter uses subcontractors (a separate tiler, electrician, or plasterer), the job depends on all of them being available at the right time. If the electrician cannot come on Day 2 and is only available on Day 5, the entire schedule shifts.
Solution: Ask your fitter at the quote stage how they manage subcontractor scheduling. The best fitters have established relationships with regular subcontractors who prioritise their work. If a fitter tells you they will "book the electrician once we start," that is a risk — it should be booked before work begins.
Living Without a Bathroom
The practical reality of a bathroom renovation is that you will be without a working bathroom for some or all of the project. Here is how to manage it:
If It Is Your Only Bathroom
- Shower alternative: A gym membership (many offer short-term or monthly memberships from £20-£30/month) gives you daily shower access nearby. Some homeowners arrange to shower at a neighbour's or family member's house.
- Toilet alternative: For longer projects (7+ days), a portable camping toilet (£25-£50 from Argos or Amazon) is a practical solution. Not glamorous, but necessary.
- Minimise disruption sequence: Ask your fitter to reconnect the toilet as early as possible in the process — even if it is a temporary connection before the tiling is done. A functioning toilet makes the rest of the disruption much more bearable.
If You Have a Second Bathroom
Life is considerably easier if you have a second bathroom or en-suite. The main challenge becomes dust and noise rather than access to facilities. Ask your fitter to seal the door with dust sheets and use a dust extraction system when cutting tiles.
Timing Tips
- Summer is better: Warmer, drier conditions speed up plaster drying and make living without hot water (if applicable) more tolerable.
- Avoid Christmas or half-term: Trade suppliers have reduced hours, your fitter may want time off, and delays are harder to resolve over holiday periods.
- Mid-week starts are good: Starting on a Monday or Tuesday gives a clear run to Friday before any weekend break. A Thursday start means two days of work, then a weekend interruption before the job has really got going.
Questions to Ask Your Fitter About Timeline
Before committing, ask these timeline-specific questions:
- How many working days will the job take? (Not calendar days — working days.)
- Will you be here every working day until completion? (Or will you be splitting time with another job?)
- What time will you start and finish each day? (Most fitters work 8am-4pm or 8:30am-5pm.)
- What could cause the job to overrun, and how would you handle it?
- When will I have a working toilet reconnected?
- Are all subcontractors already booked for the right days?
A fitter who answers these confidently and specifically has done this before and knows how to manage a project. Vague answers ("it depends," "we will see how it goes") suggest less experience or less commitment to your timeline.
Ready to Plan Your Bathroom Renovation?
The best way to get an accurate timeline for your specific project is to have a fitter visit, assess the space, and provide a detailed schedule alongside their quote. Fill in the form below to receive free quotes from experienced local bathroom fitters.